How to Grow Lotus from Seeds

How to Grow Lotus from Seeds
My first experience with growing Lotus.
I've heard negative and positives about growing Lotus from Seeds but i decided to try anyway. I purchased the seed pods from a dried flower arrangement at the craft store. I got about 42 mature seeds out of the pods (and several unripe). Fingers are crossed that it wasnt heat dried and the seeds are still viable. They were on sale so if they are no good i only wasted three dollars. Lets hope i get lucky! Enjoy my how-to:)

DAY 1: March 30, 2011

I got all the seeds out of the pods by prying them with a knife. Easy enough.
I scarified them with a metal file till i saw the cream center. I just held them in place with a pair of pliers and sawed with the file. Its not hard but annoying. The seeds can be very thick and tough!
After i scarred them i put them in a plastic bowl in warm water. I know i scarred them good enough because you can see air bubbles escaping from the seeds. I set them in the window sill. The plan is to change the water and replace it with fresh warm water once or twice a day.Here's a picture of the scarified seeds in the water. And now we wait!




MARCH 31 After only one day of soaking the seeds are really beginning to swell!

April 2, 2011...(Day 4 of soaking)...I spotted one of the seeds splitting! I hope this means green is to follow soon!
 

April 3, 2011..... I see green!! it happened last night and all through today the "hooks" have been coming out. I did help them out a little by *gently* pulling off the hard dark coating around where the sprout was making its way out. I read this method on a lotus info site and it really seemed to help because seeds that hadnt sprouted are now out! one lotus seed in particular seems to be doing the best. its been the fastest and biggest sprout throughout the whole process. Every time i changed the water I swear i could see the sprout pushing its way further out right before my eyes. 

HERES PICTURES AFTER I REMOVED SOME OF THE SEED COATING


 

NOW HERES PICTURES LESS THAN 24 HRS LATER(April 3)


  
APRIL 4th, 2011...... (about 5 days after soaking) I decided 4 out of 8 of the seeds were ready to be planted. I used miracle grow garden soil. Since I live in Fl. clay isn't readily available. For now i put the seedlings in milk jugs with the top cut off by i have Rubbermaid bins ready for them once they get established. I stuck them in the soil with my fingers till just the green was out. and left a couple inches of water over them. They are now sitting in the sun, on the patio.I can't wait for them to really take off.
*As for the remaining four seeds I know there's life inside because i can see green but they just haven't found the strength to sprout yet. I'm hoping patience will pay off.

PICTURES OF READY SEEDS 
 

PLANTED IN THEIR TEMP HOMES

 
APRIL 5, 2011 (about a week after starting) a second stem is appearing!
after planting them they have been getting taller every day reaching for the surface! and now we wait for the unfurling of their very first leaf!!

 
APRIL 8TH....Only updates are that the sprouts have grown about an inch past the surface and the curled leaves are beginning to separate from the stems. also some of the plants have sprouted a second leaf from the seed.
 
HERE YOU CAN SEE THE LEAF SEPARATING FROM THE STEM

AND HERE'S THE SECOND SHOOT EMERGING

Only problem I have encountered so far(and very minor at that) is that my water is getting a green bubbly film :( I have just been scraping it off by hand. I'm assuming its algae from stagnant water being in full sun all day.

APRIL 10, 2011 (around noon)
  • I went to check on my lotus and they seem to be in a very slow and stubborn stage but  the sprout that has been the strongest this whole process is unrolling its very first leaf today (finally) and the same sprout now has a second stem breaking the waters surface to start making leaf #2 !
  • All the other sprouts leaves are still rolled tightly but separated from the stem.
  • As for the remaining 4 lotus seeds. they are still being lazy, and not sprouting but I'm not giving up since I can see green in every one of them!
 
well i take back what i said about peeling the seed because the ones that hadn't come out yet when i did it are now rotting:( dont help your seeds! *on to better news...

April 11, 2011
**my first official floating leaf!!**


 
SO THRILLED!

APRIL 13, 2011 *two weeks after soaking* I decided to start planting the lotus in more permanent homes..no more milk jugs:)

This is how I did it.
SUPPLIES: 


  1. Of course my sprout from a dried lotus arrangement from Hobby Lobby craft store*on sale ($3.99) * I did the math and I paid about 10 cents for each seed 
  2. 18 gallon toy tub from walmart 18" x 16"(about $6.00)
  3. miracle grow garden soil *1.5cu.ft. ($5.00)
  4. compost cow manure from home depot*40lb. bag ($1.50ea.)
  5. osmocote granule fertilizer (veggie and flower formula) ($14.00)
  6. gravel (I used the kind from the fish section. I had it from other projects) ($11.00)
*I waited till the lotus had two floating leaves with a third really thick stem that looked like it would be two more leaves.

STEP 1:  I poured 1 cup of osmocote fertilizer into the bottom of the tub.
STEP 2: I then filled the tub with about 9-10" of 1/2 composted manure and  1/2 garden soil, *mixed together well*. maybe slightly more compost than garden soil (I didn't measure)  However, I did make sure the top layer was manure to limit floating stuff.
STEP 3: I poured a very thin layer of aquarium gravel to also help prevent floating stuff.
STEP 4: I filled the tub with water until it stopped bubbling(the soil was completely saturated) and left about 3-4" of water above the surface of the gravel. scooped up what did float with a fish net.
STEP 5: my final step was to make an impression in the gravel and place my sprout down into it and LIGHTLY covered with gravel just enough to keep the seed from floating up. make sure not to cover too deep or cover growing tips.

**water is still Clearing but here is there current status.**

 

  
3days later 

well as you can see the rocks didn't help keep the soil from coming up so I guess you can just skip this step if you want. I did with the remaining three.

April 24, 2011

JUST SOME PICS WHILE WAITING ON AERIALS





Here's one of my lotus from a second batch! its got floaters and aerials that measure a foot across!



Now the hard part is seeing if all this will pay off with beautiful Lotus blooms. Most likely I'll be waiting until next season but just maybe I'll get lucky:)
Categories:

How to grow Dianthus at Home

Best Tips for Growing Dianthus at Home

Dianthus
Dianthus is a genus of around 300 species of flowering plants native to Europe and Asia. This genus is known for its beautiful flowers existing in red, purple, white and pink colors. Carnation, Sweet William and Pinks are some commonly found and popular dianthuses. Some believe color pink came from pink dianthus. They are very easy to grow and come as annual, biennial and perennial varieties. 

Propagation
Dianthus can be propagated from seeds as well as cuttings. Propagation from cuttings gives plants same as mother plant. Take cuttings by making a sharp cut just below a node on a new, unflowered stem. Then put the cuttings in prepared soil mix and cover the container with plastic bag.
Sow seeds in March – April when soil starts to warm. Press seeds 1/8 inch deep and 12 – 18 inches apart in soil. Cover seeds with soil and water daily with sprayer. Seeds should sprout within 2 weeks.

Container
A small to medium sized container can be used as Dianthus are small plants. Make sure container is having adequate number of drainage holes to ensure smooth drainage of water.
one of Dianthus variety
Soil
Use well drained soil enriched with organic matter. You can improve soil quality by adding 2 inches of compost and 1 inch of manure in case of poor soil.

Sun / Temperature
Dianthus should get minimum of 4-5 hours of direct sun light. 

Watering
Allow soil to dry out between two water cycles. Do not overwater the plant. Water Dianthus once a week  with 1 inch of water.  ( Rule of thumb )

Fertilizer
Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer every 2 months to promote continuous blooming. Dilute the fertilizer to half strength before using it.

Caring
Deadheading (removing dead flowers) is recommended to promote blooming.
 Varieties:

  • Arctic Fire: Features the contrasting eye common in the biennial varieties, but this one is hardy to zone 3.
  • Firewitch: Although this hot pink variety has been in cultivation since 1957, its popularity really exploded when it was named the 2006 Perennial Plant of the Year.
  • First Love: Repeat blooms are common on this plant, which may have white and pink blossoms at the same time.
  • Rose De Mai: Very fragrant heirloom with lilac flowers
 
Common Names:
  • Cheddar pinks
  • Clove pinks
  • Gilly flower
  • Pinks
  • Sweet William (most often refers to the biennial dianthus)

Categories: , , , , , ,

How to Grow China Asters


The large China Asters are the most common form grown by florists and gardeners. Native to Asia, this lovely flowering annual is worth the little extra effort it takes for growing.

Callistephus chinensis
Characteristics

It is a popular ornamental plant in gardens, and numerous cultivars are available; the cultivars are grouped by size, with very dwarf (up to 20 cm), dwarf (20-40 cm), intermediate (40-60 cm) and tall (60-80 cm). Most species of aster are perennial and generally bloom in August.
They have daisy-like or star-like flower heads (4-6" in diameter) with a yellow center on leafy, often tall, stems.
The leaves are alternate, 4-8 cm long, ovate, and coarsely toothed. The flowerheads are variable, with either all ray florets or an outer ring of ray florets surrounding central disc florets. Their colors vary from white to creamy yellow, pink, blue, red and purple. They do well in beds, borders or pots and are a favorite as cut flowers because of their longevity.
Propagation & Protection
Asters need fertile, sandy, well-drained soil and full sun. The propagation is through seeds. Before sowing, sterilize the seeds with organic mercuric compounds to prevent stem rot and damping-off. For sowing of seeds, it is best to use a shallow flat. Add one-forth well rotted manure and enough sand to the soil to prevent the soil from becoming hard. Fill the flat half or two-thirds full, water thoroughly, and finish filling with soil just moist enough to handle nicely. Sow the seed in rows 2 inches apart, cover with fine sand and press firmly. The wet soil in the bottom will furnish enough moisture so that the boxes will not have to be sprinkled until after the seedlings are up.
The seeds will germinate in a little over a week. As soon as several true leaves have grown, the seedlings should-be transplanted. Use rich soil in the bottom of the flats and ordinary soil above as further protection against disease. Set the seedlings 3 to 9 inches apart depending on the variety. The plants will grow to a height of 6-10 inches to 3 feet and a width of 6-18 inches.
Since they are prone to wilt disease, virus diseases, foot rot, root rot, and aphids, avoid planting in the same location year after year. Pinch off faded flowers and yellowing foliage regularly to encourage new blooms. Shading plants prevents injury from the tarnished plant bug and yellows. If plants are badly diseased, burn them and stop growing China-asters for a few years. Water well in dry weather.



Growing Asters
Asters may be propagated by dividing or grown from seed sown indoors at about 70 degrees F or may be sown directly into the garden after all danger of frost has passed. Germination takes anywhere from 15 to 30 days, depending on the temperature.
  • Asters should be planted in moist well-drained soil in full sun, but they will tolerate light shading.
  • Plant Asters at least 18 inches apart so that plants do not form broad bushy clumps.
  • Mature clumps should be divided every 3 - 4 years in the early spring, or late fall after the flowering has finished.
  • Pinch back the tops by 6-8 inches at least once during the summer, to create a bushier plant and to prolong the fall bloom.
  • Pinching must be done prior to mid July, or it will have an opposite effect, and blooming will be reduced.
Asters Plant Care
  • By planting Asters in a sunny spot with good air circulation, powdery mildew can usually be avoided.
  • Asters need regular watering at their roots.
  • Many Aster varieties fail to survive the winter if kept too moist.
  • Asters should be cut down after flowering to deter seeding. Even without seeding, Asters should be divided every three years to stay at their best.
  • Disease in Asters can be controlled by dividing them yearly in spring.
  • Pruning tends to delay flowering by only a few days but produces a much prettier plant.
Also, any other ideas, products, comments are welcome!

Categories:

©2014 eHowtoGrow | Design by MyBloggerBlog